Into the Heart of Romania – A Pilgrimage
August 19 – September 4, 2006

By Fr. Gregory Horton

Romania is endless. Romania is boundless. Romania is timeless. My son, Maximos, and I discovered just how endless, timeless and boundless on our recent pilgrimage from August 19th through September 4th, 2006. We were blessed to be traveling with Drs. Mihai and Daniela Alexianu, who provided some much needed background as we prepared and as we encountered the first experiences of our journey.

Of course, those who have traveled internationally already know the inevitable reality of delays, cancellations and other inconveniences associated with getting from here to there. But the possible travel glitches were minimized for me by the reading of Volume One of the Romanian Patericon by Archimandrite Ioanichie Balan as I traveled. This book documents the lives of the major Romanian saints from the 3rd through the 18th centuries and also includes a pilgrims’ map of Romania and details about where the relics of the saints are located throughout the country! It was a veritable wealth of information on this trip! Of course, it also illustrated to me the fact that two weeks would NEVER be enough to truly experience the deep riches of an Orthodox country that dates its Christian roots back to the time of the Apostle Andrew and can boast of physical evidence of a Christian community from the 2nd Century! Our course took us from Spokane, WA through Minneapolis and Amsterdam before we landed in Bucharest, the capital city of Romania. (Romania is 10 hours ahead of Pacific Daylight Time. We departed from Spokane on Saturday morning and arrived in Bucharest on Sunday afternoon at around 1:00pm). We were met there by our guide and translator, Valentin Vulcanescu, a university graduate in Theology who plans on becoming a priest and who speaks a very healthy dose of English. We went by taxi to the apartment of Mihai’s parents in Bucharest (they were traveling in the U.S. and had graciously consented for us to stay in the apartment and use it as our base of operations while in Bucharest. Mihai and Daniela were on a different flight and met us at the apartment several hours later; but they left us alone in that beautiful apartment and generously stayed at the home of friends. Our journey had begun!

On Monday, Vali arrived for a walking tour of many holy sites in the city of Bucharest. We first went to Antim Monastery in the heart of the city (Antim is Romanian for Anthimos, as in the saint of that name). Here we venerated relics of the 40 Holy Martyrs of Sebaste, Sts. Neophytos and Akakios, and the Holy Martyr Paraschevi. We also sat and had a very wonderful talk with the abbot of the monastery, Fr. Michael. As we were departing, he decided to show us some funny video clips on his computer that were from the United States — he was laughing quite a bit at these clips! Mihai and Daniela then departed to attend all of the business that they had and we continued on our walking pilgrimage. We arrived next at the church housing the skull of my beloved Patron Saint, Gregory the Theologian (I believe it was named the Church of the Ascension). What a great blessing it was for me to venerate that skull that had contained one of the most holy and deified minds the Church has ever known! We then found the Metochion (Embassy Church) of the Antiochian Patriarchate!  It is dedicated to St. Spyridon and has been recently rebuilt after being destroyed by the communists (a charming little church in the pure Byzantine style). After lunch, (a note about the food below) we continued to the Cathedral of St. Spyridon where we were able to venerate the relics of that Holy Saint. We also visited the Patriarchal Cathedral of Sts. Constantine and Helen, where we venerated their relics and the relics of St. Dimitry the New of Bucharest (also called Dimitry of Basarabov). He lived during the 12th-13th centuries as an unknown ascetic whose miracle working relics were revealed to the Church only years after his falling asleep. This was quite a full day of walking many miles and visiting many holy sites — and we had barely scratched the surface. There are still other churches that we were not able to get to during the trip including one containing the hand of St. Nicholas of Myra. But perhaps another time.

(A note about the food — Romanian food is generally quite delicious; they have many traditional soups and dishes featuring tasty combinations of meat and vegetables. Even during the fasting days we were never very hungry and always had some bread and fruit to sustain us and also the very popular Romanian version of watermelon — absolutely delicious! Max truly enjoyed the food, although I did catch him one night lying in bed reciting the names of various restaurants in the U.S. while trying to fall asleep. He made several solo raids into the streets of Bucharest at night to the nearby McDonald’s and Pizza Hut — oh well, you can take the man out of America, but…)

Day 2: Mihai drove us to several monasteries on the outskirts of the city. These included the Caldarusani Monastery, where we were able to venerate many relics, including a relic of the Holy Cross, St. Panteleimon, and many others. We also visited the Cernica Monastery and had the great blessing of venerating the relics of Sts. Callinic (Callinicos) and George of Cernica, two contemporaries of St. Paisius of Neamts (Velichkovsky). These three were instrumental in reviving the spiritual life of central Romania during the 19th Century. We then returned to the apartment in anticipation of the next leg of our journey which would take us out of the city and into the beautiful Romanian countryside. The weather in Bucharest those first two days was unseasonably hot and humid. So we were eager to get away to the mountains the next day.

Day 3: We drove west (on the CRAZY Romanian roads — I don’t recommend it for beginning drivers. Thank God Mihai was with us to drive for those first few days) into the beautiful region of Arges (pronounced Argesh) and visited the Curtea de Arges Monastery where we venerated the relics of St. Philothea of Arges. This holy virgin lived during the 12th-13th Centuries, lost her mother as a child and was oppressed by her stepmother. In spite of all of this, she attended church services frequently and distributed her clothing and food to the poor children of the area. She was martyred at the age of 12 by her own father for distributing his food to the poor. The father, in a furious rage, threw his hatchet and sliced her leg, mortally wounding the girl. In great remorse, the father confessed his sin to the Archbishop of Trnovo (Bulgaria). He, in turn, brought his clergy to the place where she was in order to move the holy body, but the Lord would not allow the body to be moved! The Archbishop then realized that she did not wish to remain in her homeland, so the clergy began reciting the name of many monasteries and sites throughout the world for the martyr to hear, but her body still did not become light enough to carry. They finally named the Monastery of Curtea de Arges, and through a divine miracle the relics of St. Philothea became light and could be lifted up and placed in a coffin for veneration. The Bulgarian clergy took the relics in procession as far as the Danube where they were met by the Romanian clergy who escorted them to the monastery where they remain until this day. Many sick have been healed and droughts ended by this precious saint and huge processions take place with her relics on her feast day (Dec.7th). At some point during this day, we also visited a womens monastery where an elder by the name of Fr. Macarie dwells. We were able to spend some time with him and hear him speak about various spiritual subjects. We then traveled to Ravenstone Monastery, where we met the abbot, Fr. Ignati, who explained to us the incredible history of this place. Here we were also able to venerate the relics of Sts. Theodore the Soldier and Theodore the General, among many others. The incredible thing about Ravenstone is the cave where the church is located. There is ancient iconography that has been discovered there that dates back at least 1500 years, possibly longer! Icons of the Feasts of the Church adorn the ceiling of the cave and there were many more that have been destroyed or eroded over time. The Dacians were an ancient people that settled this land and accepted Christianity very early. This is why the Romanians reject the notion that they became Christian at a later date, perhaps at the time of the Slavic conversions. No, there is strong evidence suggesting that these ancient Roman (Latin) people were Christian right from the beginning. In addition, they love their language as well. It is a Latin based language that sings much like Italian. But there are also some Slavic influences that combine with the Latin to produce some incredible combinations of sound. Anyway, back to Ravenstone… the Abbot showed us a site on the grounds that is believed to have been used by the pre-Christian pagans several thousand years ago as an altar of sacrifice. All in all, this entire place, quite remote in location, exudes a profound sacredness as an ancient holy site for both Christians and pagans. We finally arrived that evening at the Slanic Monastery (pronounced Slaneek) where we would spend the night. After a delicious supper, Max decided to take a walk outside. Apparently, he ran into the Abbot of the monastery who had not yet met us. He did not speak very much English but noticed Max and the clothes that he was wearing (jeans and a t-shirt). He thought that Max was one of the workers helping with the renovation of the monastery church. Then he noticed Max’s flip flops that NOBODY wears in Romania (they are just impossible to obtain). He began speaking to Max and when Max answered in English, he almost jumped out of his skin. He began asking “Where are you going?” in broken English (perhaps meaning “Where are you coming from and WHO ARE YOU?”) and Max explained that he was going for a walk, etc. The Abbot asked again, “Where are you going?” He was very confused about this English-speaking, worker-looking young man that simply dropped out of the sky to this most REMOTE location way out in the mountains of south central Romania!!! At that moment, the Abbot noticed some nuns at the gate and went to greet them. When he looked back, Max was GONE! He thought he had seen a vision and started wondering who this young man had been! Finally, we came out and met him and then he explained the entire encounter to us. We were literally rolling with laughter… a good way to end the evening.

Day 4:  Slanic Monastery is on an Athonite schedule for prayer–they began the services at around 3 or 4am. It was a quiet and magnificent set of services that culminated in the Divine Liturgy. We toured the farm upon which the monastery depends for its support and we had a delicious lunch before departing on the next leg of our journey. Later that day, we finally ended up in another remote location, at the Monastery of Iezerul, near the site where 300 monk-martyrs were slaughtered by the Austro-Hungarian army. At this monastery are the relics and the cave of St. Anthony the Hesychast of Iezerul-Vilcea. We climbed to the top of the nearby mountain in order to venerate the chapel near his cave. Several of the sisters of the monastery walked us to the top just as evening was falling. The Abbess then very graciously made room for the four of us to stay as pilgrims for the night. St. Anthony grew up in the love of Christ from his early youth, and knew various hesychasts in the area that lived in stillness. He became a monk at Iezerul Skete and then later withdrew to the desert life in nearby Iezerul Mountain in about the year 1690. There he labored alone in a small stone cave, praising God day and night and warring with the evil spirits and with the frailties of nature. He received a blessing to dig out a small chapel in the cliff (right out of the stone). He worked at this for three years. His holy life became known everywhere, and numerous disciples, monks, priests, and laymen came along the mountain paths to pray with him and to ask his advice and prayers. He reposed in 1714 and was buried near his small chapel until his holy relics were exhumed and placed in the monastery church, where they remain to this day.

Day 5:  After our morning departure from Iezerul Monastery, we visited the monasteries of Cozia, Turnu, and Sambata (pronounced Simbata), all with very rich histories tied in with the rulers of Romania and various saints through the centuries. At one of these monasteries we met a married priest named Fr. Bessarion and his Preoteasa (wife) and young daughter. It turns out that he is in charge of the Romanian Church radio and he offered to interview me for his program. We were to call him when we arrived back in Bucharest before the end of our trip. We then continued driving north through the Carpathian Mountains into Transylvania. Mihai explained to me, however, the tragic history of Transylvania and how it had been ruthlessly conquered by the Austro-Hungarians, and many churches and monasteries destroyed. This is why there are not as many churches or monasteries in Transylvania as there are in Romania proper (Walachia) or in the spiritual center of the country, Moldavia. Nevertheless, we were making our way to “Dracula’s Castle” (Max’s destination of choice). On the way, we encountered breathtaking beauty as we drove through the Carpathian Mountains–in some ways reminiscent of the Pacific Northwest–but with an old world charm and history unmatched by anything that we have in America. So we arrived in Bran, in the southeast portion of Transylvania–the location of “Dracula’s Castle.” This castle was an old fortress that really has NOTHING to do with Vlad Dracul (who was an actual historic figure that does not resemble the character Dracula whatsoever). But without getting into all of the history of Vlad the Impaler, etc., suffice it to say that the Communists chose Bran Castle out of thin air in order to satisfy all of those western tourists that were searching for “Dracula’s Castle”! Ironically, they chose the castle that had belonged to Princess Ileana (who became Mother Alexandra and founded a womens monastery in Western Pennsylvania) to satisfy the tourists. The castle itself is quite beautiful inside, with many floors and rooms and much of the original furniture. Old photographs of the Romanian royal family hang in virtually every room of the castle. Outside, there are a variety of vendors and eateries all catering to the many tourists that travel to this place. It was a nice little diversion and Max truly enjoyed himself at this place! We stayed that night in a house that Mihai rented for a very inexpensive rate in the local village. We had the entire place to ourselves and were able to shower and relax there. We were also treated to a delicious meal at a local restaurant run by the same woman that cares for the house. Vali and I walked home that evening filling the village air with liturgical songs in many different languages while Mihai and Max went on ahead so as to avoid anything thrown at us by angry villagers trying to sleep (only kidding about the angry villagers).

Day 6: The next morning we drove to the large city of Brasov to drop Vali off at the train station as he needed to travel to Bucharest for a few days to finish some business. While there, we visited the Black Church (name given after a large fire colored the walls), a large Lutheran church that is active to this day and has served the many Germans who were invited to settle along the northern edge of the Carpathian Mountains in order to protect the border of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In fact, the entire northern side of the Carpathians is filled with towns and villages of either Germans (Austrians) or Hungarians that were settled there during the days of the empire. Many signs marking the beginning of the villages are written in both Romanian and Hungarian along the road. But in Brasov, the flavor is definitely German. We ate a delicious meal outdoors at a café in the city square before heading for our ultimate destination… Moldavia. It took us a few hours to drive east along the northern edge of the mountains and through the mountain pass into Moldavia. But we finally found the remote village that we were looking for… Diaconesti (pronounced Deeakonesht). We had been given the name of the priest of the womens monastery there and wanted to spend the weekend with them. When we arrived, however, we telephoned the monastery from the village and were told that the only bridge over the river had been washed away in a flood the previous year and we would have to cross the small, temporary foot bridge that had been placed over the river. So we left our car in the yard of one of the pious villagers, took our baggage, and began walking towards the little rickety bridge. One of the nuns agreed to meet us on the other side with the truck to drive us to the monastery if we could cross. As I crossed, I felt the entire weight of all my baggage shake and bounce and I just knew that I would be going in, but miraculously I was able to cross and even pose in the middle of the bridge for a photo or two. The rooms at Diaconesti Monastery were very comfortable and the food excellent. But most importantly, the services, beginning with the Saturday evening vigil and Sunday morning Liturgy, were heavenly. The choir of nuns that sang the responses was like no other that I have ever heard in my entire life, bar none!  Fr. Amphilochie, the spiritual father of the monastery, gave fiery sermons (but of course I could not understand a word because my translator was gone and Mihai had now left also, hitchhiking his way back to Bucharest and leaving us the car). Hitchhiking is a way of life in Romania and indeed, throughout much of Europe. One evening, Fr. Amphilochie came into my room with one of the sisters that spoke some English, and we had the most beautiful and inspiring spiritual talk–glory to God! After lunch one day, I saw a flock of nuns with an enormous piece of furniture lifted high in the air, moving it from one building to another. I called Max to go and assist them and as he joined them, he was swept into the torrent of monastic movement, about 15 nuns and my son running across the courtyard with a very heavy wardrobe for a new novice–where was my camera?!?! We decided to stay a few more days, through the Feast of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist. Vali had returned by then and I was able to hear some fiery preaching in translation during the Divine Liturgy for the feast. The nuns are also very gifted iconographers and I was given a tour of their studio. I commissioned one icon already and hope to have more ordered during the course of the year–may it be blessed! After the Liturgy on the Feast of St. John the Baptist, it was time to depart after having spent almost three beautiful days at this special monastery.

Day 9: After departing from Diaconesti, we decided to head north, deeper into Moldavia. But now, when we returned to the road, I WAS DRIVING! Yes, I was unleashed on those strange Romanian roads and what a ride! Vali was my navigator and Max was praying. As we passed through a village on our way north, Vali decided that it would be a good idea to visit the family of his girlfriend. So we turned into the narrowest alley I’ve ever seen in my life! I knew there was going to be trouble. So after our visit, I began the tedious task of turning the car around using a reverse gear that would drive the most experienced trucker insane. There was a little tavern across the alley with several men from the village in residence (for most of every day, apparently), and a bicycle belonging to one of them parked along the fence in front. So, as I was having trouble with the European reverse gear, I casually commented, “Wouldn’t it be something if I slammed into that bicycle?”, and thinking that I was in reverse, I SLAMMED INTO THE BICYCLE and several panicked village men came running out. Vali told me that the owner was screaming that he had just bought that new bicycle and that I should give him money (GIVE ME MONEY, GIVE ME MONEY). So I got out to examine the bike and started speaking (in English, about how it doesn’t look that bad to me–the wheels turn nicely, I don’t even see a scratch, etc), when one of the other men from behind the fence started speaking (in Romanian) in a frightened and bewildered tone of voice. Vali told me that he was saying something like this: “Father, PLEASE stop speaking that strange language. I don’t understand what you are saying–speak plainly.” So I asked Vali if we could just give them something and leave and he eagerly said yes. I opened the trunk and took out 50 lei from my bag (about 15-16 dollars) and gave it to the man with a kiss of peace and a big smile. They all seemed happy and ran back into the bar and we jumped into the car and were back on the road. Later we discovered from the family that we visited that a big story had now grown in the village. Apparently, an American priest was driving a car with a trunk full of money and he was opening it occasionally and giving some away from place to place. Needless to say, we came back using a different route. That evening, we arrived at Varatec womens monastery, where there are about 400 nuns living, and attended vespers. Wishing to move a little further, we came back out to our car and a man rushed up and asked if he could siphon gas out of our car (a very typical occurrence in Romania, it would seem). So he pulled out this old rubber hose and inserted it into our gas tank and tried to suck the fuel from our tank. He would get a mouthful of gasoline and spit it out from time to time, but he never was able to get it going–our car was, apparently, too new and siphon proof. So they jumped back into their car, on the hunt for an old Russian model from which they could siphon some gas. I apologized that we could not help them and blessed their journey. They started up their car and drove off, leaving us scratching our heads. We then drove to Agapia Womens Monastery (where there are about 600 nuns or more) and spent the night at a little hostel run by the monastery.

Day 10: The following morning, we departed from the monastery and had breakfast in the town of Tirgu Neamt (pronounced Nahmts), at an outdoor café (only because there are no smoke free restaurants in Romania and it would have been like eating inside of a chimney. We then visited the monasteries of Bistrita (pronounced Bistreetsa), where there is a wonder working icon of the Theotokos. We then went to the monastery of Neamts, where we venerated the relics of St. Paisius Velichkovsky and the skull of St. Simeon of the Wonderful Mountain. At this monastery is also another miracle working icon of the Theotokos. It is said to be the oldest Icon of the Mother of God in all of Romania and may have been painted by the hand of the Holy Apostle Luke. We then visited the little museum at the monastery and one of the monks gave me the epitrachelion (stole) of St. Paisius to wear and his staff to hold for a photograph–what a blessing! I hope the photo came out! St. Paisius is a very special presence in this part of Romania. He was the Abbot of this monastery and in fact, is considered one of the greatest abbots of Romanian monasticism. He lived from 1722-1794, and was born in Poltava (Ukraine), where his father was a priest in the city cathedral. After his father died, he was sent to study at the Moghila Academy in Kiev in 1735 by his mother. After four years of study, his soul did not find rest in the world and he felt himself called to monastic asceticism. In the autumn of 1739, when he was only 17 years old, Peter (his name as a child) set off in search of a monastery and a good spiritual father. For seven years he wandered about to different sketes and monasteries, including the Kiev Caves Lavra.  In one monastery, he was made a ryassaphore monk with the name Platon, but not finding spiritual repose in the Ukrainian monasteries, he crossed over into Moldavia in 1745. After a year or two visiting various Moldavian monasteries, he departed for Mount Athos and lived for a time in solitude there. In 1750, Elder Basil of Poiana Marului in Romania visited Athos and tonsured the desert-dweller Platon a monk, giving him the name of Paisius. From then on the humble Paisius began to receive disciples, was given the Skete of the Holy Prophet Elias to live in and accepted the Holy Priesthood. He lived on Athos for 17 years altogether. In 1763, Abbot Paisius came to Moldavia with 64 disciples and was given Dragomirna Monastery, where he lived for 12 years. There he gathered a community of 350 monks. In 1775 he went to Secu Monastery, accompanied by 200 monks; and in 1779 he moved for the last time to the great lavra of Moldavia, Neamts Monastery, where his relics lie to this day. In his final years at Neamt, he translated numerous works of the Holy Fathers from Greek to Russian (including the Philokalia), organized the community according to the rule of the Holy Mountain, formed a brotherhood of about 1000 monks, trained many disciples in the practice of the Jesus Prayer, and maintained spiritual ties with many monasteries, abbots, spiritual fathers, desert-dwellers, bishops and high government officials. On Nov. 15th, 1794, at the age of 72, this great abbot passed to eternal rest during Vespers and was canonized later by the Romanian Church for the holiness of his life. That same day, we also visited three other monasteries, including Secla, where we venerated the foot of St. John the Baptist, and Sihastria, where we were able to pray at the grave of Elder Cleopa. Finally, we drove deep into the mountains to the Monastery of Petru Voda, so that we could meet and receive the blessing of Elder Iustin Parvu.

Day 11: We will actually begin on the evening of this day when we arrived. One of the monks, Fr. Daniel, saw us in the church and when he found out that we were from America, he began taking very good care of us. He told the elder about our arrival and after we had something to eat, Fr. Daniel took us into the woods to the sketes of two old millionaires who left the world in order to have a simple end to their life. As we looked out from the porch of one of these sketes, we could see many such houses dotting the hillside with no electricity and no access to roads or telephones, etc. We sat there for hours telling stories to one another and enjoying the quiet setting deep within the heart of this ancient land. Upon our return to the monastery, we were told that the elder would see us at about 9:30pm. But as soon as I reclined to take a nap (it was about 7pm) Fr. Daniel and another monk with hardly any teeth named Fr. Anastasie came in with a giant watermelon wishing to spend some time and asking many questions. We talked right up until the moment that the elder was ready to see us. Many people wait every day and night to visit with Fr. Iustin (Justin) and to receive his advice. The monks took us through the kitchen and into the back door of the elder’s humble cottage so that all of the people waiting would not notice and be offended that we were going in ahead of them–Lord have mercy! Fr. Iustin was in a Romanian prison for about 30 years and underwent so many tortures and trials for the sake of Christ. He is the foremost elder in all of Romania and busloads of people come daily to get a word with him. So we went in and sat down for our chat. He spoke softly and with lots of love for us. But his wisdom was very simple and yet very piercing. Finally, he offered each of us a glass of wine filled to the very brim and we shared a toast (he abstained but insisted that we drain our glasses). We then left in anticipation of the services that would begin at midnight. Fr. Daniel told us that we could sleep through the first bell but to come at the second… so we got to sleep in until about 2am! When I arrived in the Altar, the elder and all of the hieromonks were prostrating in the Sanctuary and reading the Akathist, commemorations of names, etc. I spent the entire Liturgy with them in prostration… what a blessed service! Finally, I saw the elder depart from the altar and head for his cottage while being greeted by the many people waiting to speak with him. It was an incredible sight and I could only guess that he catches a few hours of sleep between visits from people by just dosing off and shutting the door. God has given us a great blessing in the person of Elder Iustin Parvu–may he live and serve for many years! While the service was finishing, I stood in the church yard and gazed up at the billions of stars not being drowned out by any light whatsoever–God was present for me that night.

Day 11 (continued): By the time we awoke from our sleep after the services, it was time to have a quick bite and depart. Frs. Daniel and Anastasie loaded us down with food for the road, including (of course) two enormous watermelons! And we were off with fond memories of a special place organized by a holy elder. We drove for the better part of that afternoon and were approaching the city of Bacau when Vali announced that he had an Uncle Romeo in that city and that we should stop for a visit and maybe some dinner. So off we went and they received us graciously (unannounced). It turns out that Uncle Romeo is one of the wealthiest men in the city because of his very lucrative photography business. He is one of the only photographers in the city and has been there for decades. So we had a nice meal and truly hit it off. We had such a good time that they put us up in the Moldavia Hotel, the most prestigious hotel in all of Moldavia, at the city center, and in a 10th floor suite! What a blessing! We showered and had a very good sleep that night!

Day 12: Uncle Romeo wanted us to meet him later in the morning for some lunch and to show us his museum of photography and to have me celebrate a Panahida (Memorial Service) in the cemetery for his family. When all of this was accomplished, we were back on the road to Bucharest and a weekend of rest (hopefully) before our departing flight back to the States. So after a hair-raising drive back to the city, we arrived back at the apartment just in time to meet Vali’s girlfriend, Laura, and to have him telephone Fr. Bessarion for the radio interview. This was Friday afternoon and we were to depart very early on Monday morning. So I thought that a nice quiet interview on Saturday would be perfect as we unwound and prepared for our return flight. Little did I know what would be coming next!

Day 13: We arrived at Fr. Bessarion’s church just before the end of the Divine Liturgy and then stayed for the Memorial Service. He then invited us for some lunch utilizing the food offered by the people for the Memorial Service. Finally, he asked me to accompany him as he blessed a house and the table was fully laden there as well, so we ate just a little and then departed because Fr. Bessarion had arranged for us to meet Patriarch TEOCTIST of Romania and to receive his blessing. We arrived at the patriarchal residence and had a lovely exchange with His Beatitude. We exchanged some gifts, took a few photos and he told me how much he loves our Patriarch IGNATIOS of Antioch. Just when I thought it was time to leave, Fr. Bessarion asked him about the possibility of me serving with the Patriarch the next day for His Beatitude’s Feast Day (St. Theoctistos)!!! The Patriarch was delighted and encouraged me to serve. Then we departed with his blessing. Fr. Bessarion then warned me that I might be asked to say something the next day. We then had our radio interview and the questions covered a multitude of subjects. It was a very in-depth conversation and I was actually exhausted by the time it was finished. Nervously anticipating the next day, I said farewell to Fr. Bessarion and we drove home for supper and an early retirement in preparation for our big day on Sunday!

Day 14: Arriving at the Patriarchal Cathedral, we saw many people already gathered at the church as I entered the Altar with Vali. Priests and monks were coming and going and about 10 deacons were present in the Sanctuary–what a festive day this would be. When the time came, the clergy left the church and crossed the courtyard to the Patriarch’s residence to escort him to the church. When we arrived, I had the occasion to speak with several bishops that spoke English. I told one of them that his country is beautiful and he replied that my country is also beautiful–Lebanon and Syria! You see, since I am in the Antiochian Patriarchate, they assumed that I am Arabic! Another of the bishops, Vincentie (pronounced Vinchentsee), told me that one of the bishops would preach the sermon and then I should be ready to say something short on behalf of the Patriarch of Antioch! Lord have mercy! Anyway, when the time came during the Hierarchical Liturgy, we stepped up and I spoke briefly about the heart of a patriarch and how none of us could ever know all of the many mysteries locked away in there. After congratulating the Romanian Church with la mults an (many years), the patriarch embraced me and spoke to the people about his close relationship with Patriarch IGNATIOS. I then pinched myself to see if I was standing there and indeed I was. Vali was floating on air as a humble teacher of theology in the high school, able to deliver a message in the Cathedral on the occasion of the Patriarch’s Feast Day! And so I received the precious and life-giving mysteries and again thought that the day was over and I could now go home and pack. BUT, we were all invited to a banquet afterwards in honor of the Patriarch’s Feast. So, I found myself at a table with all of the bishops and dignitaries, including the Romanian ambassador to Turkey, eating a delicious 5 course meal. It was actually good that the ambassador was there (speaking about church politics in Constantinople, Jerusalem, Bulgaria, and elsewhere), because the patriarch did not ask me any questions during the meal. But he was a very gracious host and kept referring to Preot Gregory from America!!! Max and Vali were in another room eating with the deacons and the drivers, so I was also without an interpreter… so I was very quiet during that meal. Following the dinner, we were finally able to depart with the last blessing of the patriarch and jumped in the car to go home. Vali then announced that he had set up another interview with a very popular writer in Romania who wanted to write a book about me if I could spare six hours or so. I almost collapsed on the spot. After working out the details of getting a blessing from one of the patriarchal bishops, I agreed to two hours and said that it would have to be a booklet. The interviewer, a man by the name of Danion (DanJohn), first asked me about my journey to the Church and then asked what topics I had been working on recently. When I told him that I had been giving seminars on marriage and sexuality he almost jumped out of his chair because he has recently written a book on the topic. So that was the bulk of the interview–everything under the sun within the realm of sexual ethics and the teachings of the Church. If I disappear in the near future, it’s because something I said got me in trouble and they have whisked me away in the dead of the night. We also talked a bit about missionary work in the Church today. Following the interview, we walked through the streets of Bucharest in search of a coffee shop. Then they remembered a little Orthodox bookstore and tea shop–so we went there and sat down. Within 15 minutes, 5 or 6 others had gathered around for discussion and I could see that they were willing to sit there all night and talk, but Mihai wanted to leave for the airport by 4:30am!!! So, as more students and theologians arrived to pick the American priest’s brain, I announced that it was time to go and we departed. After walking the 10 blocks or so to the flat where I was staying, Max and I said our goodbyes to dear Vali and his girlfriend and turned in for the big trip home (after packing for an hour or two). Vali had proven to be a most worthy translator and traveling companion and the Lord truly watched over us during this entire, exciting trip! I pray that everyone can experience pilgrimage the way that we were able to on this most glorious adventure!